KeepItPrinting.com

[Nik]

Hello

I had a Dev unit lock up completely and grind the gears.
Replaced the dev unit and cleaned out all the metal fragments.

Now getting large voids on the left side of a 36 in print. Similar voids in the the same spots. Here is the 36x60 test print.



Changed drum, and corona, cleaned printhead.
Smaller prints are not affected by the voids.

Any ideas?

[cjwilt]

If it is just on long prints, the problem could be the fuser speed. Have you tried adjusting this?

Also, if you are able to do a stop print you will be able to see if the image is making it to the drum or not. This is helpful in finding the problem.

[Nik]

Thanks for the tips CJwilt.

Turned out to be the Gas Spring on the far left side not allowing the transport unit to make a tight seal.

Thanks again!!

[cjwilt]

Cool. That's a good find. Thanks for the update.

[dlee]

If that inner gas spring is getting weak, it's gonna be a challenge to replace it. I found an easy way but requires a lot of muscle. Let me know if you ever get to that point?

[Nik]

dlee wrote:

If that inner gas spring is getting weak, it's gonna be a challenge to replace it. I found an easy way but requires a lot of muscle. Let me know if you ever get to that point?

Whats your trick?

[dlee]

Take rear cover off that is under fuser section (behind controller). Take angled pick (it's a precision tool, looks like a shank but they come in different angles at the point) and pull the clip off the end of the shock on the inner wall, then pull the shock end off that side. You might want to have a couple extra clips available..LOL. Then drop the transport section, so that the other end of the shock is closer to you and do the same to that clip. Remove shock. Put new shock on in reverse order. Put the new shock on the transport section first. Patience with putting the clip back on, unless you have tiny hands. I used a magnetic flathead screwdriver and pushed the clip in with the edge of the screwdriver. Then raise the transport section (Inner Feed Assembly). (Now you will need muscle and precision). Since the tab, where the hole is, is not centered, face the tab towards the right side. Then I put a 12" flat head screwdriver to the left of the tab. So that your screwdriver is almost center on the top. Balance your screwdriver and shock and push the rod in. It's been a while but I think you'll need to push it in about an inch. Once the tab and the shaft lines up, push the tab onto the shaft with the screwdriver. It is very important to close the transport section before trying to install the wall mount side or else you'll be trying to push the rod in 5 inches or so. This shouldn't take more than an hour. You probably will have to try a couple times to line up the wall side. Also, the hardest part about pushing in the rod with the screwdriver is getting it going, once you get it moving, it seems to ease up, so don't give up. Hopefully I didn't forget anything.

Can't seem to find it right now, but I remember KIP instructions are to remove the Inner Feed Assembly, Fuser Section and a whole bunch of other stuff.

Good luck.

[cjwilt]

I don't use the screw driver trick like Dlee does. Instead I put a pair of vice grips on the shock (lightly locked) then push the shock in until the pin lines up with the hole. Then put the clip on. My 2 cents worth.

Good Luck

[dlee]

The key word is "lightly"....lol. Some people don't know what that means and can scar, scratch, mangle up the shaft, which in turn could scratch up the seals when opening and closing the inner feed assy.

[dlee]

Hey guys, I guess I can't blame this on the shock.. My 9000 is randomly doing this void on the left side. It always appears between 30" and 38" down the left side of the print. Smaller drawings are not affected. It's not every print and sometimes it's just a small blotch, other times it's 10-12" wide. I flipped the drum and it's still there, so it's not the drum. What I did find was that the drive chain was really loose and the two metal 50T spur gears that mesh up with the DC motor's 40T gear, their tooth should have a flat spot but they are sharp and worn. I have ordered new chain and gears. Yes, I checked the shock and checked for broken plinths, but none.

[mark in vegas]

I have no freaking idea how you guys get that back lower eclip back on the stud. Even after scooting the transport to the left I couldn't get the damn thing on. Ended up doing it KIP's way, slightly modified of course.
_________________
Regards,
Mark
RVN 68-69
It's so nice to be insane
No one asks you to explain

[dlee]

Open the transport as wide as possible, install end of shock onto stud on transport, close the transport and then install the other end onto the stud on the machine side.

[mark in vegas]

My weak area is reinstalling the e clip on the lower inboard side. There are a couple of tools I've been looking at that would make the procedure a little easier, but none are perfect (like me). If some forward looking engineer had just provided a hole in the frame this would be a non issue.
_________________
Regards,
Mark
RVN 68-69
It's so nice to be insane
No one asks you to explain

[dlee]

Just thought about this: next time someone has to change that shock, order the KL Clip that the 7100/7170 uses on the Outside paper exit. The two clips that you have to remove to slide that unit off those two shafts. They have a 90 degree lip on it and it would probably be easier than the flat ones. There are two sizes though, the ones on the exit door and the smaller ones on the sensor shafts, I just don't know which one would fit without comparing them, but they would work the same.

[mark in vegas]

Brilliant!!! Thank you sir.
_________________
Regards,
Mark
RVN 68-69
It's so nice to be insane
No one asks you to explain