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Exit door rattles

 
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mark in vegas
doctor


Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 1852
Location: Las Vegas, NV

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: Exit door rattles Reply with quote Back to top

I have a couple 3000's that have exit doors that rattle, mostly on the driven side (right as you face the exit door). The fuser turns freely, the gears are new and the drives are updated to ball bearings and the door screws are tight. I've noticed the top of the fuser assy torques toward you slightly when driven causing the rattle. It's not a big deal until the person sitting next to the printer decides they can't tolerate the noise. Anyone else have this issue and found a fix?
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RVN 68-69
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CHILLIN
doctor


Joined: 05 Oct 2006
Posts: 950

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Has the fuser section drive been upgraded to the big quarter sized bearings or just the small ones?
 
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mark in vegas
doctor


Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 1852
Location: Las Vegas, NV

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

You know I hadn't considered that. I did the drive about a year ago and don't remember whats in there. I'm assuming the bigger bearings are more better......
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CHILLIN
doctor


Joined: 05 Oct 2006
Posts: 950

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Kip originally sent out a mod kit for the drive. It had small bearings about the size of the oil less bearings. Another tech told me to try the Fuser Drive Kit Part # Z058080330. I have not seen any info about it before. TB or Tip unless I missed it. The kit changes the bearings, drive shaft, mounting bracket and drive gears. I put that in with new bushings at the same time. I haven't been back yet. A few were eating drive gears every few months. The kits about $10 more than just the drive gear.
 
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mark in vegas
doctor


Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 1852
Location: Las Vegas, NV

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

I keep a kit in the truck, it's the newer, bigger better bearings. I'll have to check the type I installed last year next call, thanx.
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cjwilt
doctor


Joined: 24 Jan 2007
Posts: 1041

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

I use part number SUP-EAR-PLUGS
 
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mark in vegas
doctor


Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 1852
Location: Las Vegas, NV

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

I prefer SW 1911, Creates a permanent solution.........
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RVN 68-69
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TXReproShop
doctor


Joined: 04 Apr 2005
Posts: 300

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

mark in vegas wrote:
I prefer SW 1911, Creates a permanent solution.........


Taurus Judge does pretty good also.
 
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dlee
doctor


Joined: 07 Nov 2006
Posts: 1459
Location: E. Syracuse NY

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Did you use every part that came with the new fuser bearing upgrade kit? I had a guy that was supposed to change everything out but for some reason decided to pick and choose what he wanted to replace. The door rattled and they kept having gear/drive issues. One day I went in and realized that half of the stuff there were never replaced. Once I replaced everything in the upgrade kit, it purred like a kitten.

Also, I know you said door screws but I don't know if you meant the screws that hold the metal to the plastic door from the inside, those screws come loose alot and can cause vibration.
 
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mark in vegas
doctor


Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 1852
Location: Las Vegas, NV

 PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

1. I did not sell the extra parts.....
2. Yes door to frame screws screwed

Re: Judge=handfull
Pam Anderson=handfulls
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tjohnson
doctor


Joined: 23 Aug 2010
Posts: 508
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho

 PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

I remember a few years back when this problem was a major problem for my customers and KIP deleted the tech bulletin or tech tip regarding the fuser upgrade kit. That was the first kit with small bearing and it was junk, so Kip pulled the tech bulletin and never released a new one with the 2nd upgrade kit with the larger bearings. I still have one machine that tears the gear apart a couple of times a year, with this new kit installed and a freely turning fuser.
Mark, make sure your fuser pressure isn't too strong, those fusers drive a lot better with less pressure than Kip sets them at. Worn fuser bushings will cause problems in this area too.
 
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mark in vegas
doctor


Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 1852
Location: Las Vegas, NV

 PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

I forgot about the pressure adjustment after installing the drive kit. If I remember correctly the screws are backed off about 1/2 a turn. Guess I need to do a drive by and square that away. Thanx Tim.
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scott
doctor


Joined: 06 Dec 2004
Posts: 570

 PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

I back the pressure off till it's not fusing, then tighten it until it is. Then a little more. Helps a lot with overall wear and noise. Kip really did go a little wild with the pressure settings.
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mark in vegas
doctor


Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 1852
Location: Las Vegas, NV

 PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

I didn't back it off that far, more like a turn or so. I did replace the rest of the parts except the brackets, they were already large bearing type. The vibration is almost completely gone, gone enough so the customer is satisfied with the noise level.
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gjames
resident


Joined: 02 Apr 2008
Posts: 174

 PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

What Scott suggests is best.

This tension would be different for different parts of the country depending on your average humidity levels.

KIP over compensates so the machines will work anywhere they are shipped. I also wouldn't doubt if they added a little extra just to help wear out parts faster. What's the point of selling equipment if you can't sell the parts that go along with it.

The 3000 was under designed on purpose. It's the White Wale that KIP and others still are looking for.

They want a machine that will do just a certain amount of volume dependably up to a set volume then if you go over that volume the wheels start falling off the bus and the parts that have to be replaced cost more than if you just bought the bigger KIP with a higher duty cycle. A sales and marketing dream.

Us field engineers and servicers are trying to make a buck and in order to do so we have to overcome these crutches in order to make any money.

Does anyone on planet earth charge the "suggested" service rates offered by KIP?

I can tell you if you do and you service your equipment properly you will lose money or break even at best.

And if you follow the "suggested" maintenance from KIP you will be buying new parts all the time and you really won't make any profit.
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